| >> | Everything you always wanted to know about France |
|
|
This is newsletter number 96 about life, living in France and our personal experiences over the last 16 years bringing up our family.
The aim of this newsletter is to share experiences about living in France and to give information about living or visiting France. Do browse through our websites and please use the advertising links. Some of this newsletter is about Buying Property, Investing and Living in France. I notice, when I read through the draft before sending out these letters, that my advice sounds often negative - however, that is the response I sincerely believe is relevant to the enquiries which are often based on dreams rather than common sense. There is nothing wrong with dreams - we all need them - but when people ask me if they should make a big financial and emotional commitment to "Come To France" - it would be unfair of me to rave about the sunshine, wine, and happiness which exist if the question is "can I get work" or "should I buy an old property and do it up". We prefer to live in France than any other place we know - we have invested everything we have, even my Mum has come to live with us. And it has been sunny all week (snow in the UK I am told) - gloat - gloat ======= In This newsletter 1. What is the Value of My Plot of Land 2. Don't Buy euro From Your Bank - You can Be a Currency Trader 3. And Another Thing 4. C'est la France 5. Don't Bank On It 6. Hunting, A French perspective 7. Comments on Builders and Overcharges ====== 1. What is the Value of My Plot of Land. Dear Tony We have a brilliant piece of land for sale in that famous Dordogne area. What makes it extra special is that it's the last plot in a quiet, tiny hamlet, 15 mins from what I consider the most beautiful town in France, Brantome. Location must count for quite a lot? There was a nice but derelict barn on the site when we bought but this was demolished by an order from the commune. My theory is that some kids were playing without permission and their parents were worried they would get hurt. So we have about a third of an acre with a wonderful view in a hamlet, perhaps 5 or 6 houses. Two of which are used as holiday homes by British families arriving at Easter and in the summer. I know that if there was once a building on the land you are permitted to put up another. I have seen your advice about being better and cheaper to build from scratch than renovate and certainly from our experience we know you are not restricted - where to put bathrooms etc. Perhaps you could match us with someone looking for a special place to build something. We are very realistic and won't ask a stupid price but would like an idea of current prices. We purchased it as a barn in 1988 on the edge of a tiny hamlet. Some years later it was considered unsafe and demolished by an order from the local mayor and has remained an eyesore - just a pile of rubble overgrown with saplings, weeds and brambles (according to the British holiday home neighbours) who have always had an interest in purchasing the land so they could have a garden. Their garden is almost non existent and our land backs on to theirs. Their original offer was an insult and they are willing "to slightly increase it" after 5 years! It must have a value and that's what I need to know. Land must have increased since 1988. There must be one family looking for a plot of land at a reasonable price in a brilliant location. I have seen quite a few plots on various sites in Charente, Dordogne, Lot and Correze departements at outrageous prices starting at Euros 26,000. Some have no planning permission, others are three in a row - yuck. Even barns these days don't come at bargain prices any more. What is your advice please? Regards Janine == Hello Janine If your land is outside the commune and you have demolished a barn - then it seems certain to me that you cannot get planning permission for a new building. Only land within the POS (Plan d'Occupation du Sol) for residential building can ever get planning - you need to check this with your Mairie, but even then your Mayor will want to buy this in for the commune (probably reselling to his brother) - they can preempt any purchase if a property is offered for sale. There is no rule or law that says if there was once a building on land it can be rebuilt - the POS is the only guideline. Many people are cheated in this way. What I am saying is that you cannot get planning permission for anything unless the land is in the POS of the commune for residential use, as you say this is on the edge of a village, it may or may not be - only the Mayor can tell you this. If it is in the POS for residential building then is has a value as building land, again only the Mayor can grant permission, but this cannot be withheld if the proposal is "reasonable". To establish a value, you need to apply for planning for a specific building, once this is granted than you can determine the value of the land. In our department (Herault) a good plot, with planning for an attractive 3 bed villa is worth from 50,000 euro to 200,000 euro depending on the surface area. In the Dordogne prices are lower, but it is still a very popular area. If the land is not in the POS for residential building, then the value is what anyone will offer for it. For a garden this would be from 2,000 euro to 10,000 euro for up to half a hectare. Often these "non buildable" plots are bought in by the commune and then "magically" get planning permission and are worth ten times as much - I have seen this happen. There are also many examples of people buying barns having been lied to by the owner or agent that planning for residential can be obtained. This is not true, unless the barn is in a residential area and unless it is approved for planning it is worth no more than farm land. People building without planning, even installing drainage etc are required to reinstate the land and to remove all services. My advice is to go to the Marie and determine exactly what use your land has. If it has residential planning permission, then speak to an architect to see what sort of building can be built there. If it is not in a designated residential area then either keep it for a picnic spot or sell to the highest bidder. Because there is so much chicanery with "building" land in France we avoid sites making these offers, we are launching several property sites where you can advertise or look for buyers, but these are mainly for existing homes and not land - you can try our site... Caost and Country best wishes Tony ======= 2. Don't Buy euro From Your Bank - You can Be a Currency Trader Don't Buy euro From Your Bank - Be a Currency Trader And definately do not buy any currency from the foreign exchange shops in the high road or through travel agents. With a little care the rate of exchange you can get can be much better. The Internet has made the "black art" of money changing simple open and fair. If you are going abroad, buying property or transfering a pesion or salary, most people still change their money through their bank. Even for a small house this is like giving you bank manager a free car in the extra commission you will pay. The rate of exchange changes constantly - to see this happening look at... xe.com The prices you see listed are what is called the "mid-market" rate. Mid-market rates are derived from mid-point between the buy and sell rates of large-value transactions in the global currency markets. Since "buy rates" and "sell rates" include overheads and profit margins that are set independently by each foreign exchange provider, they will vary depending on who you're talking to, and will always be different than the mid-market rate. So how do I get the best rate of exchange? One solution is to set yourself up as a foreign exchange dealer, sit in front of a stack of computers and shout into phones buying and selling currencies all over the world. However, this is totally impractical for most people, you need access to a few million euro to start with A better solution is to register with an independant foreign exchange company. I have tried several recently and the one I recommend is, Currencies Direct. My reasons for preferring them are that, most importantly, they have consistently quoted me the best exchange rate of any other sevice, bank or dealer. They will deal with amounts as little as £2,000. I get one personal dealer who I can call anytime and who will also call me if rates change quickly to my advantage. I can also "haggle", try that with your bank. They also offer the best rates and sevice I have found anywhere for smaller regular transfers like pensions and salaries. To see their services look at Currencies Direct ======= 3.And Another Thing Dear Tony. We are regular readers of your newsletters and find the information very helpful. Just thought we would pass on our experiences since we bought our house in the Puy-du-Dome area over two years ago. When we went to view the house, we fell in love with it straight away and put in an offer without any sort of survey, other than us looking and checking things with our very limited knowledge, it is certainly not something I would recommend, buying without at least a professional builder first checking the property, but we just had a gut feeling about the house. The house had been empty for about two years and although solidly built in stone was not a ruin but in need of much internal repair. The roof had been replaced within the last 15 years (good news, as the cost of a new roof is quite frightening). We have now employed French builders to start the restoration. In addition, have budgeted 130,000 euro (about what we paid for the house). We could have bought a ruin much cheaper but the restoration costs would have been many times greater than the purchase price. In our experience, buying cheap does not end up cheap compared to newer properties available in France. We looked at some houses that were for sale that had been restored, all I can say that there is "restoration" and restoration. We have also met people that purchased houses that seemed incredibly cheap but have now realised the true cost of getting the house to a comfortable habitable state. We wanted to use local services so went to the Mairie to ask his advice on who lives locally that could assist us in the building and restoration project. He immediately furnished a list of Artisans and pointed out the most suitable. The Mairie is a mine of information and worth contacting to find out what is going on in the area. There are many adverts for builders in magazines and probably a little cheaper but we really wanted to find people that came recommended. The French like to know you are using local artisans. You cannot pass wind without someone knowing, so do not even consider doing something you should not and hoping nobody will notice. Gardening. We have made a vegetable plot and decided to invest in a walk behind rotivator. Thinking you just started it and pointed it in the right direction and of you go. Wrong! After 20 yards of twisting and turning in totally the wrong direction and across the lawn, determined to hang onto it, dragging me falling and stumbling behind it, until the cuff of my jacket that was trapped in the lever finally parted and the machine stopped. The moral of this story is read the instructions fully and do not take off things because you think they are there only to park the machine. Shopping, in the morning until 12 sharp, in the afternoon from about 2 pm, they will not be amused if you are only half way through your shopping list at 12 o’clock.(the quickest way to learn French swear words) Travelling. How far is it? will you drive or fly how many time a year will you be visiting for holidays or until permanently residing. Anything past mid France is nearly a days drive and quite tiring, but necessary if you have many things to take out. Flying is o.k. except for getting in and out of airports, limited luggage and hiring cars at your destination. When you take into account getting to the airport, parking, waiting at least the hour and a half before boarding, disembarking at you destination, collecting the hire car and driving two hours, as in our case, to our home there is not that much difference in the time it takes to drive. We normally go out about six times a year for three weeks at a time. Apart from being quite tiring, we find driving the most convenient way of travelling, taking into account the volume of baggage we seem to accumulate for each trip. A place in the sun depends how much sun you want. In our region there are seasons, yes, we get sun in the summer but we also get snow in the winter and sometimes lots of it, along with blocked roads, frozen pipes and power failures. If you like the idea of living in a small community, it is a good idea to investigate how hilly it is, what the access to the main roads is like. Small winding roads are a delight in the summer but can be incredibly dangerous in the winter, especially if it is hilly (we are about 735 meters above sea level) believe me it makes a difference. In some areas 4x4’s are at the top of the needed list. Check what sort of climate to expect in the region you are looking at. Get prepared for winter, probably in September/October. Our first year we left it until December (to late, snow arriving, not enough wood for the fire and fuel deliveries closing for Christmas). Ask your neighbours. We live in a small hamlet consisting of five houses and quite remote. Perhaps we have been incredibly lucky but our experience so far has been nothing but good. We try very hard to integrate with the community and attempt to speak French (appallingly badly) but we insist on trying, which causes laughter at our attempts. Our neighbours have now bought English/French dictionaryies to help us with our French because it is so bad. They are friendly and courteous and very helpful but curious that we insist in locking everything up each time we go out for the day. We are foreigners living in France and will always be foreigners (resident or not) but if you are ready to live the French way and accept the culture you will warmly welcomed. Trying to live the English way and create a little England is asking for trouble and hostility. Things are different in the smaller communities - no large supermarkets no Indian or kebab take-aways no fish and chip shops, if you would miss these things then most of France is not for you. What would we change! Nothing, what do we miss! Nothing. From Bernie & Jan ======= 4. C'est la France Hi Tony We purchased our place at end August last year and are really looking forward to using the property for holidays and eventually retirement. We are as prepared as we can be for the different attitude to work and the laid back approach of France (obviously something which attracts us), but bearing in mind the few incidences we have come across since August can you shed any light on exactly how France operates as a country with a work ethic such as this? We appreciate that things probably do get done eventually, but does it really need to be this way? It is not generally the length of time things take, but the overall lack of communication. We were due to meet the vendors of the property we were buying at the Notaire's office for the signing (they were being collected by the estate agent). We waited for 2 hours after which the Notaire telephoned them to ask why they hadn't come - apparently the estate agent had not turned up and they couldn't get hold of him. We drove 12 miles to pick them up, waited for them to sign and then returned them home. They were very grateful but embarrassed. We understand from the Vendor that they never did receive an explanation or apology from the agent. His office would just say he "was delayed" with another matter. We recently booked a hotel by email, didn't receive a reply for 2 weeks so sent a fax (in French) asking if the booking was OK. Still no response. 2 days before we were due to visit I telephoned the hotel and was told that "the booking was made". They were surprised that I should need confirmation and, judging by the tone, were quite put out. We contacted the geometre we used to divide up our plot of land to ask a simple question regarding boundaries (information he would have had to hand). This was on 22 November 2004; despite us receiving a bill for this work for several hundred pounds neither he nor anyone from his office has replied to any of our faxes or emails (which incidentally have been read). Each time I telephone he is "out of the office" but despite leaving messages he never telephones back. I have been waiting for a building estimate since end September 2004 - after sending numerous emails and faxes I eventually gave the builder a deadline of 1 February for the quote to be with me - he then sent me an email saying it would be with me by 7 February as he hadn't yet been able to start it. To date still no estimate. Just before Christmas I telephoned two local estate agents to ask for names or recommendations of builders/local artisans for a variety of jobs; both promised to let me have a list of their contacts. Neither has responded to my request. One last thing to mention, in complete contrast to the above, is that our Notaire has been absolutely fabulous - he has worked tirelessly for us in what was a difficult transaction - responding to emails within hours and giving us regular updates on the purchase - he couldn't have been better. Kind regards Bev == Hi Beverley The answer is "c'est la France" - but this attitude is threatening to make France a third world country. The insane 35 hour week, education, and utilities run by unsackable civil servants with an attitude problem caused by their adoption of the very worst aspects of communism and fascism, all mean France is heading for meltdown. Add to this the civil service whose pension demands equals the national deficit each year and something is going to give. There is no incentive for anyone to do any real work in France, productivity is high because, as it is so expensive to employ anybody, industry automates as much as possible. Arrogant indifference is replacing service. Your experiences would be funny if they were not so common - it is interesting to see that the only good service you had is from the Notaire, whose main function is as a tax collector. The weather is good though ! Bonne Chance Tony ======= 5. Don't Bank On It Hi Tony Since arriving in France last month, my biggest problem arises from dealing with the banks, and the extortionate 'frais' they appear to charge when I send them money (Euros!) from my UK Euro account, to put into my account in France. Or when I try to pay a bill directly by having my UK bank send Euros directly to the Enterprise concerned (though into their bank account of course). For me, I am using Credit Agricole, but also La Poste - who seem a little better, though I'm not sure. But of course the various enterprises all have different banks. Surely there must be some way round this making virements within the EU system? Grateful for your thoughts? Best wishes Kerry === Hi Kerry We have found absolutely no advantage and a lot of costs in having a euro account in a UK bank - the euro is only an international currency in cash - all "euro-countries" (this does not include the UK) still charge for cheques from non country to another and for transfers from a non-euro country this is extortionate. The best way is to buy euro as competitively as possible, the minimum would be buying £2000 sterlings worth of euro, and transferring this to your French account - then pay direct from your French account. Do not trust your bank to give a good rate There is no viable or fair way to make payments across borders economically - all banks are crooks and rogues - they are not after your custom - they are after your money. Make sure you keep details of all bills and payments - all money put into a French bank account is assessed for income tax and only correct and legitimate bills are allowed to be set off against this. If you are a French resident I do not believe you can legally have a euro account in the UK now. Best wishes Tony ======= 6. Hunting, A French perspective Hunting we are told is the sport of Kings and Toffs so surely nothing could reinforce this view more strongly and give more ammunition to the antis than the scenes of hunting with dogs at the Court of Louis XIV of France. Louis loved hunting and appointed his own peintre de la chasse painter of hunting, A.F. Desportes, Member of the French Academy of Painting and peintre animalier, to accompany him on the hunting field and record what he saw. Do these paintings and others like them now merely serve to glorify a bloody and barbaric ritual or do they reflect some of our modern ideas and conflicts? Under the French Monarchy the laws controlling the various forms of hunting were extremely complex and by the 18th Century la Venerie, hunting with dogs, was the sole right of the Sovereign and some of the nobility.They possessed both the privilege and the wealth to own une meute de chien pack of dogs and a formal ‘equipage’ of horses. Hunting played a large part in the life of the French Court, the Royal Kennels were at Versailles and Louis hunted in one form or another every day of his long life. He valued the daily discipline of early rising which it involved both for himself and his Court and understood the importance of fresh air and exercise in combatting the stresses of his role as Sovereign. Desportes accompanied the King out hunting, sketching from nature. Nothing was overlooked, from the most intense moments of the hunt, l ‘Hallali the kill, with dogs, wild boar, stags, wolves or deer, to a small stoat, a butterfly, bird, or plant. Louis was interested in all aspects of hunting, wildlife and nature and,away from the pressure of life at Versailles and affairs of state, he could choose which sketches should be worked up into paintings for Versailles, Marly or Choisy. The dramatic effects in Desportes finished works based on his sketches rely on composition and lighting not lurid effects. Game in the luxurious still life paintings is presented as a trophy in a variety of settings frequently guarded by dogs, but it is also represented in a modern culinary concept. Not only are the appropriate vegetables shown including the newly imported cauliflower from Sicily, but the game is sometimes shown ready prepared for cooking. In an age when a rich and heavy diet was normal, Louis was ahead of his time in believing in the benefits of a healthy diet and fresh ingredients. Louis’ commission for Desportes to paint his favorite white hunting dogs, ‘chiens couchants’ for his Chateau at Marly resulted in the first animal ‘portraits’. Posed with game against the familiar landscape of the Isle de France, their names are written in large gold letters. Reputedly descended from the white dogs of St Hubert and Francis 1st, they lived in the Royal Appartments, were fed by Louis, wore collars inscribed ‘I belong to the King’ and were taken to the hunt on horseback. Everything changed on 4th August 1789 when the equality of rights was declared during the French Revolution. The liberty to hunt was restored to the people and the nobles and clergy renounced their privileges. Under the old regime not only La Venerie, hunting with dogs, had been prohibited but also hunting small game, shooting and falconry. Only the hunting of vermin and dangerous wild animals was legalised in an attempt to protect crops and domestic animals. Poaching was rife, as was the illicit use of traps and poisons. Our Government now wishes to deprive the people of their right to hunt with dogs, who knows what other bans may follow and their effect on the countryside. Susan Klugman : 7.10.04 Copyright ======= 7. Comments on Builders and Overcharges Hi Tony, I would like to add my comments on builders and overcharges. In 2002 my wife and I bought a small town house in Conques sur Orbiel. We had just about everything re-built. I know we were grossly overcharged for just about everything, but one incident concerning our plumber stands out. I was presented with a devis for some work that required the drill through our outer walls for gas stove vents. I looked at the devis and noticed a charge of 602.00 Euros for the "rental for one day of a carateuse for the making of the holes. I commented to the plumber, "I did not wish to buy the carateuse, just rent it. He smiled and said this was indeed a special machine and very expensive, nothing else would do". I told him I would be present to see such a marvelous machine". He made sure not to show up when I said I would be home. I then informed him I would not be home on a particular day. That is when he showed up to drill the holes, he had a large rotating hammer drill and a coring bit. I asked him if this was the marvelous machine, he said yes, it was very rare and expensive to rent. I then went to "Locations Vallet" in Trebes and received a devis for the rental of the same equipment for 97.50 Euros for the day. So 602.00 - 97,50 Eros...a 504.50 surcharge for the rental! I confronted the plumber, he demanded to be paid the difference, stating I had given him the approval for the work. I refused, he placed himself in front of me and said he would not leave without his money. At that point I opened my front door and physically threw him out into the street with his tools following close behind,(much to the delight of my neighbors). One year later he still is trying to get the extra 504.50 from me and has turned me in to just about every authority he could think of,(including denouncing me). I would dearly love to turn this plumber in for any law you might help me with concerning corrupt over charges. Thank You P.S. whatever you do, do NOT hire a plumber by the name of Philippe Sanges from Luc. == Hi David If there is deception then you can make a report to the D.D.C.C.R.F http://www.minefi.gouv.fr/DGCCRF/06_infospratiques/ddccrf.htm?ru=06 If you signed any devis you may have a problem as this may imply a contract. Hope this helps Tony |